Cuba is my favourite country in the world, but it’s probably not for everyone. Walking central Havana can feel like living in the most beautiful movie. Mothers drying clothes shout at each other across broken balconies, like a movie set in postwar Rome. Kids play baseball in the streets, using boards and garbage for bats and balls, like a film set in depression-era Brooklyn. When you are in Cuba people are so open that if you speak a bit of Spanish you can almost become part of their giant drama. But movies are idyllic and reality can be hard. The reality of life in postwar Rome and depression-era Brooklyn was much harder than the idyllic scenes imagined in movies, and Havana is the same. Rome and Brooklyn were actually dirty, smelly, imperfect cities full of hustlers and poverty, like Havana. I think that’s where visitors to Cuba can sometimes be disappointed. To really appreciate Havana you have to meet people, which means experiencing the imperfect realities of daily life and those realities can be harder in Cuba than in other countries. However, for me, it’s worth it because the greatest thing about being in Cuba is being around Cubans. They are an amazing mystery to me. So many struggle so hard just to survive each day, yet have such enviable joy and energy. Many love their country and know how special Cuba is, yet are hopeless and desperate to leave and maybe never come back. You get the feeling that there are no boring days for people in Havana. I know I never had a boring day and will want to come back over and over.
ABOUT UNPACK STUDIO
I spent over three weeks at Unpack Studio Havana and it was so great. Omar and his staff were wonderful and helped me through any question or issue that ever came up. They really went out of their way to connect me to local and international artists and local shows. They also took a deep interest in my art project (@CollabCuba) and worked hard to connect me to whatever I needed to succeed (they even introduced me to people who might help me arrange a show). The house is gorgeous, classic and in perfect condition. I left feeling like I had made friends for life. If you are staying at the residency, below is some advice I learned during my stay.
TRANSIT
Probably my favorite part of my stay at the residency was my trips from Vedado to Havana Vieja and back. I did the trip many times by bike or on foot, but my favorite way was by flagging down one of those gorgeous old 1950s rattle trap cars called an “almendrones”. It only costs about 60 cents and it’s so easy. Just walk a few blocks downhill to Calle Linea and wave down the first 1950s clunker you see going east. If the car is too shiny it may be an expensive tourist car, so wait for something that looks a bit rougher. They come by every couple minutes so it won’t be a long wait. Hold out your hand and the driver will pull over. If you don’t speak Spanish just look in the always-open window and ask the driver “Parque Central?” and he will nod, and you should say “Dale” (it is of no importance that you say “Dale” but it feels so Cuban. I like to say it twice with emphasis even if there is no reason, “Dale! Dale!”). Now its time to get in the car and this is the only tricky part because the doors on these cars are old. If you get in and slam the door too hard you may damage something. Even if you don’t, the driver may pop a vein at the sound of the slam (as he mumbles things he hopes you don’t understand). The doors of these cars are opened and closed hundreds of times per day, and have been for 70 years, so keeping them working is probably a nightmare. These cars are often the drivers’ prize possession, something passed down through generations, so they should be treated with respect. Now once you are in the car you may still have a challenge because there is a good chance that the door you closed gently didn’t actually latch properly. That’s ok, you’ve made the beta error and Cubans have the same problem. You can try to close it again slightly more forcefully. If the door doesn’t have a handle you may have to reach through the window and use the outside handle. Don’t worry though, the driver will help you and will be grateful that you were gentle. Now you are in the car with the door closed, the rest is easy. The car will take you right to the center, with people getting in and out along the way. If you sit next to the window you can put your arm out the window and enjoy the show.
SAFETY
I have traveled all over the world and have never been anywhere where I have felt safer. I am a street artist. I roam around dangerous inner city American streets all night, so I have lots of experience sensing danger and I can say that I never felt any at any time of night, no matter how dark the street. This is confirmed in all my conversations I’ve had with people. Having said that, petty theft is likely very possible so don’t wave your cell phone around or leave your backpack or bike somewhere where someone can grab it, but that is just common sense anywhere.
WHAT TO BRING
It is so hard for Cubans to get so many things, and the economy is in such a mess right now, I think it’s a good idea to fill your bags with stuff to give away. I traveled using American Airlines, so I got two free checked bags that I filled with give-aways. I brought crappy old suitcases that I didn’t mind leaving behind. Examples of stuff Cubans need include any kind of pills, medicine, powdered milk, ointments, toothpaste, notebooks, candy, etc. The most cherished gifts were probably painkillers and vitamins. As far as personal items, it’s probably good to bring a roll or two of toilet paper for your personal use, otherwise you will find yourself stealing it from restaurants or saving your dinner napkins.
CUBANS
If you take some time to get to know people in the street you will be shocked by how smart everyone is. It is perfectly normal to strike up a conversation with someone doing a menial job and find out that they are trained as a nuclear physicist or economist. If you test them they can delve deep into complex conversations you would only expect to have with professors back in the US. This is more the norm here than the exception. The simple looking person you see selling trinkets in the square may easily be studying Chinese just to better themselves the minute after you walk away. Most mornings I got coffee from a guy and his wife who set up a table in someone’s driveway. After I got to know them I learned that they were both lawyers, him a professor, and their assistant was an economist but they sold coffee because it paid better than their professions. My coffees were about 10 cents each. They were wonderful people and great conversationalists.
As a foreigner you may have a very unusual initial relationship with many Cubans you meet in the streets. Many are desperate to change their difficult life situation and they don’t really have many options. They have heard of Cubans developing relationships with foreigners that led to gifts, regular donations, and even marriage. For many, this will be their initial interest in you. It would not be uncommon for mothers to present their daughters to male foreigners, no matter the age difference, or for someone to ask you for your shoes. At first it may feel like you are being manipulated, but it’s really not like that. They don’t know you, and you may be the solution to their daily struggle to survive, but once that issue is sorted out people usually just seem to shift to a normal relationship.
However, there are definitely some Cubans you want to avoid. They are called Jineteros and you will learn who they are quickly. Every day in Old Havana you will repeatedly hear someone call out “Hey my friend. Where you from?”. These people are not your friends. They will tell you that your country is their favorite country, that they have a sister or brother living there, etc. They will probably tell you that they are a musician or teacher. You should assume that nothing they say is true. Their goal will likely be to sell you cigars, take you to a prearranged restaurant, arrange a taxi, exchange money, or find you a chica/chico. They get a commission on wherever they take you and they don’t care if you overpay or get something crappy. These people are not dangerous, but they are persistent and pesky. Never respond to them unless you feel like going through the effort to extract yourself. You will inevitably get stuck talking to one. At first I was friendly with them, but I eventually became quite clear with them that I knew exactly what they were doing and that there was absolutely no chance of them making a penny off me. If you ignore them and keep walking you won’t have any trouble.
CLOTHING
Tshirts, jeans and collared shirts are fine. I brought one long sleeve shirt in November and never even considered putting it on. I also brought a rain shell, which was handy a couple times. Ball caps are good for sun, and don’t forget sunscreen and mosquito spray (there are cases of Dengue in Havana). The cleaning lady at the residence does clothes once per week so seven changes is enough.
If you want to avoid Jineteros it doesn’t hurt to try to blend in with how Cubans dress. You will probably never fool them into thinking you are Cuban when they look hard, but if your colouration is not too white, and you walk with purpose, they probably won’t pick you out from a distance and they may be unsure enough to leave you alone. I brought a pair of old shoes with holes in them and I swear I got hassled less when I wore them. I also felt like I blended in by getting a Cuban style haircut and by wearing jeans and a black Tshirt. Many Cubans wear basketball jerseys, so if that’s your thing you won’t look out of place wearing one. Sunglasses, ball caps, and oldish backpacks are also quite normal to see Cubans wear.
ELECTRONIC
– Download offline Google Map of cuba/havana so you can find your way even if wifi isn’t working
– Download offline Google Spanish translate
You can also download La Nave (like Uber), or a VPN like NordVPN. I never had any need for either, but they are used by Cubans. I put a CubaCell sim in my phone and it worked great for data, voice and sms. Sometimes the signal is bad inside buildings, the walls are so thick so I would go outside if it was a problem. I loaded the sim account with data prior to arriving in Cuba using my Visa card, then when it ran out I added some. You can buy data at many little corner stores. It comes on a slip of paper with numbers you enter in the phone to increase your account balance. There are several steps for entering the numbers so you can check with a Cuban the first time. Typing *222# will get you your balance and I think *133# might be what you type to apply the balance (or maybe it’s the other way around). It’s cheaper to buy the data in Cuba on the slips so don’t load up too much in advance.
If you don’t have a sim or it’s not fast enough I suggest the lobby at Hotel Capri. You can buy 5 hours of high speed wifi there for about $1 and they have comfy sofas, a restaurant and bar. I spent entire days in the lobby working my laptop being served food, coffee and beer and never spent more than $12 including wifi. They even have live music. It’s usually just a guy playing Cassio, so at first I just thought it was cheesy, but talent runs so deep in Cuba, if you listen you realize that you may be listening to a musical genius playing simple tunes to satisfy tourists. Every so often they let loose with what they really like to play and it can be great. Make sure to tip the musician.
INSURANCE
Your flight will probably come with an extra charge for medical insurance. Your only proof of it will be the stamped boarding pass into Cuba, so don’t throw it out (as I did). When I read the fine details on that insurance it looked a bit sketchy to me (not sure) so next time I think I will invest in insurance in the US or Canada before departure.
MONEY
Omar can help you exchange money. The latest exchange rate (Dec 2023) is about 245. Be ready for a heavy load of bills. I exchanged $400 worth of US dollars and got an arm full of cuban 100 and 50 peso notes. I needed a sack to carry them all. The exchangers would prefer bigger US$ bills like 100s or 50s, but 20s were accepted. I suggest asking for something bigger than 100 peso notes in exchange because it’s such a pain to deal with the volume of bills. 200 and 500 peso notes are handy. 1000 peso notes are also fine. There is a safe at the residency to keep your money. Tipping is optional, but the longer I stayed the more I tipped, not because it was expected but because I realized that a little bit of money makes a big difference to people here right now.
FOOD
Eating healthy is very possible, but you need to plan a bit. There are many restaurants with grilled fish, rice and vegetables, so that is probably my main meal. The vegetables are not usually varied, so you can go to a great vegetarian restaurant in Vedado (Camino De Sol), or it’s also easy to buy from the many small markets and street vendors of vegetables near the residency. I bought a pound of black beans, some rice, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, onions, garlic and cooked up a giant pot of food that kept me going for several days. These vegetables are expensive for Cubans, but are cheaper than US prices for us. If you don’t feel like cooking, it’s also easy to get bananas, avocados, tomatoes and bags full of buns. My backpack always has a bottle of water, a bag of fresh buns, and a tube of honey so I always have a plan-B if I can’t find something else. Probably the best food I ate in Cuba was three doors down from the residency. Every morning a woman who goes by Mingi sets up a stand in front of her house where she sells frituras of yuka, fried bread, and fried corn. She puts some love into her cooking and you can tell, especially the yuka. If you go two blocks south on Calle 15 there is a place to buy giant bottles of water for 75 cents each (just past the palm tree). I bought two almost every morning to make sure I had enough. There is a little place between my water source and the residency that sells great espresso for 40 cents each. I usually stopped there on my way back for a couple espressos. If you want a great coffee shop try Cuba Libro, which is about 10 blocks from the residency. They have snacks, smoothies, cafe americano and a really great student vibe.
